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  • Category: travel

    • green gecko

      Posted at 7:00 am by jasminedesirees, on July 30, 2014

      This is kind of a sad story, and it was definitely a learning experience for me, but the point of traveling is to get out of your comfort zone and learn about the wider world, so I guess this counts as that.

      Cambodia is a very poor country, I looked it up, and the average annual income for a Cambodian family is only $750 US per year. There are a lot of children who are poor, homeless and hungry, and a lot of children who are used by their families in order to make money, taking advantage of the visitors to the country that want to help where they can.

      We were chatting with a Cambodian man on one of our first nights in Siem Reap, and he was telling us about some of the schemes that people use to try to make money off of their children, including having tourists buy rice for hungry children, and then returning it to the store after they leave, and splitting the profits with the store owner.

      The tourists want to help the hungry children, and figure since they aren’t just giving them money, but actually buying them food, that they are really helping, but then the rice is returned, and the money is split between the adults, and often the children don’t get anything out of it.

      A few nights later, we were walking through the night market in Siem Reap, and a little boy, about 13 years old, came up to me, carrying a young child, less than two years old. He told me that his little brother was hungry, that he didn’t want money, or anything for himself, but just begged me over and over again to get some milk for the child.

      I still had that story in my head, so I was pretty cautious, but I decided to go along with him, because if there was any chance that he really did just want to feed his brother, I wasn’t going to say no to that. I was kind of suspicious right away, since the child was carrying an empty, and totally spotless sippy cup, that had never had anything in it, it kind of seemed like a prop.

      He also took me to a store about a block away, we didn’t pass any other stores, so it wasn’t openly strange, but he was quite intent on going to one certain store, so I thought that was a bit suspicious as well.

      As we were walking into the store, another obviously tourist couple were walking out, and I just had a bad feeling. He followed me in, and tried to get me to buy a canister of baby formula, and tried to get me to buy the large, expensive one, by telling me that the child needed that one because of his age, even though the smaller canister was exactly the same.

      At this point, the store door opened again, and another boy about the same age walked in with another tourist, and I heard the guy asked where he could find baby formula. I realized then that it was definitely just a money making scheme, and apologized to the boy and tried to leave, but he wouldn’t let me. He blocked me in the aisle, kept grabbing my arms and wouldn’t let me leave.

      I didn’t want to force my way past him, he was young but he was almost as tall as me, and I didn’t want to hurt the child that he was holding, but he wouldn’t let me go. Eventually I managed to get by him, but he followed me out of the store, yelling at me and grabbing my arms. When he finally realized that I was leaving and I wasn’t going to buy him anything, he swore at me, and grabbed the back of my arm, pinching me as hard as he could.

      He started to walk away, and then punched the little boy he was carrying out of rage. It made me sick, and I felt horrible, for the little boy, and also for the older one, because I wasn’t sure if he was going to get into trouble.

      The reason I shared that story is because I learned the hard way that there are good and bad ways to help. When you give children who are begging on the street money, and they become a viable income for the parents, it can cost them opportunities for education, since they are spending all of their time trying to earn money. But there are good ways to help as well.

      We learned about the Green Gecko Project through talking to some locals in Siem Reap, and decided to pay a visit. It is a school for former street kids run by a local Cambodian man, and his Australian wife. It started as just a one room school where kids could come to learn and get at least one good meal per day.

      It’s been nearly 10 years since it started, and some of the kids they started with are going off to university, law school, or pursuing internships in music and the arts. They currently have 75 students, and do a lot to support former students, and the community in general.

      They have visiting hours every week day, so if you are in the area and want to stop in, make sure it is during those hours. You can also check on their website, they have a wish list, including toothpaste, soap, clothing, shoes, that they are always in need of, if you’d like to help.

      They also accept volunteers, so if you have a special skill that you can teach, art or web design, or dance, etc and you’d like to spend some time in Cambodia, reach out to them.

      You can learn more about the Green Gecko Project here.

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      Posted in Cambodia, life, travel | 2 Comments | Tagged Cambodia, children, donation, green gecko, volunteer
    • angkor bayon

      Posted at 7:00 am by jasminedesirees, on July 29, 2014

      The second temple we visited at Angkor was Bayon. It’s a few minutes away from Angkor Wat by tuk-tuk, or a bit longer for those brave souls among us who chose to ride a bike all the way from Siem Reap, and then in between all the temples in the blazing hot sun (you are better men than I).

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      Bayon is quite stunning, when you pull up and see it, it kind of takes your breath away. It’s made out of dark grey stone with the hundreds of jagged faces cut into it, and against the blue sky it looks very ominous.

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      There are tons of faces carved into Bayon, it reminded me of Olmec from Legends of the Hidden Temple (90’s Nickelodeon kids? Anyone? No?), and they are all different. Bayon is a lot smaller than Angkor Wat, but there are lots of random pathways and sets of stairs, so there is lots to explore.
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      We only had one day at Angkor, so we had to see as much as we could. I ended up getting physically dragged out of Bayon so we could move along to the next temple, but I probably would have spent the whole day in there if I could’ve.

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      Posted in Cambodia, travel | 0 Comments | Tagged angkor thom, angkor wat, Cambodia, history, temples, travel
    • land mines

      Posted at 5:52 am by jasminedesirees, on July 28, 2014

      While we were in Siem Reap, we made a trip out to visit the Cambodian Landmine Museum. It was about an hour away by tuk-tuk, but the ride itself was worth the cost (about $10USD).

      We drove through small towns and villages, and by farms and roadside stands, and I really felt like we got to see a part of the real country of Cambodia, outside of the bustle of Phnom Penh and the tourists in Siem Reap.

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      The museum itself isn’t huge, it will only take you 35-40 minutes to go through the whole thing, depending on how closely you read all of the information there, but it’s really interesting.

      It all started with a man named Aki Ra, who was a child soldier for the Khmer Rouge. As a child, he planed thousands of landmines around Cambodia. He eventually switched sides, and fought for the Vietnamese allies that were fighting against the Khmer Rouge.

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      Once the war was over, he saw the destruction that landmines had caused during the war, and were continuing to cause, and began finding and dismantling land mines, by himself, using just a stick and his knowledge gained from years working with all different kinds of landmines.

      He kept all of the land mines he dismantled. People began to come see his work to learn more about landmines, and the museum was born. It’s been in a few locations, it used to be pretty close to Angkor Wat, but has since moved.

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      In addition to his work with landmines, Aki Ra and his wife also opened a school for children. They began taking in and educating children who were affected by landmines. All of the proceeds from the museum go towards the school.

      As a visitor you aren’t able to visit the school, since it is disruptive to the children, but you can donate goods such as toothpaste, shampoo, shoes, etc to the school for the children when you visit, just check the wish list on the museum website so you can see what they are most in need of.

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      It was pretty crazy to find out that there are still an estimated 3 million landmines in Cambodia today.  I would definitely recommend visiting if you have time while you’re in Siem Reap, you will get a much greater understanding of the war and the genocide in Cambodia.

      You can learn more about Aki Ra and the landline museum here.

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      Posted in Cambodia, travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Aki Ra, Cambodia, khmer rouge, land mines, siem reap, travel, vietnam war
    • infinity

      Posted at 4:31 am by jasminedesirees, on July 24, 2014

      My view today, relaxing before three straight days of diving.

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      Life is better underwater.

      Posted in Indonesia, travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Flores, Indonesia, Labuan Bajo, scuba, travel
    • angkor wat

      Posted at 7:00 am by jasminedesirees, on July 23, 2014

      A lot of the places we’ve seen on our trip so far have been amazing, but one of the ones I was was looking forward to the most was Angkor Wat, mostly because it’s somewhere I never thought I’d be able to go.

      The first time I ever heard of Angkor Wat, I was sixteen, in my social studies class. I don’t even remember what the context was, or why we were talking about it, but I was instantly interested.

      I remember hoping that one day I would make it there, but at the same time, I figured it was very unlikely, since I was just a kid from a small town in Saskatchewan. The world seemed infinite to me then, and I didn’t even know anybody that knew anyone who had ever been to Cambodia.

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      The next summer, I found a book called First Born by Doris Mortmain at my grandma’s house. It was completely ridiculous, but it is still one of my favourite books ever. In one scene, the author describes the two characters having a picnic at a beautiful ruined temple in the middle of the jungle in Cambodia. The book takes places in the 1960’s and 1970’s and she never names the place outright, but I knew it was Angkor Wat, and it made me want to visit even more.

      I always thought Angkor Wat was beautiful, but I was also fascinated with the history, it was built a thousand years ago, and was all but forgotten about (by the outside world, locals knew about it, obviously) until Cambodia was colonized by the French in the 1800’s. I always wondered what the first people who stumbled upon it were thinking, one minute they are chopping through jungle trees, the next minute they are faced with this enormous, amazing structure that nobody knew was there.

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      It’s certainly not undiscovered anymore, millions of people visit Angkor each year. It’s only been reopened to tourists since the early 90’s, and the number of visitors has been increasing ever since, but even though it no longer feels like a forgotten place, it’s still pretty amazing.

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      We got up early to visit Angkor Wat at sunrise, I’d read somewhere that if you get there super early, it’s quiet and you can even get some of the temples to yourself sometimes. That was not my experience at all, there were at least a few thousand people there when we got there at 5:30 in the morning.

      I’ve seen amazing pictures of Angkor Wat at sunrise, so if you have the opportunity to go, definitely do it, unfortunately for us, it was really grey the day we went, and we couldn’t see the sky at all behind the clouds.
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      Even though it was pretty busy when we got there, Angkor Wat is pretty massive and there are lots of different areas to explore, so by the time we made it to the courtyard at the very back, there were hardly any other people around. It was really peaceful there, and we just saw on a ledge and hung out for a bit, while I tried to convince myself that I was actually really there.
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      Angkor Wat wasn’t even my favourite out of all the Angkor temples (I would move into Ta Prohm if I could) but being there just reminded me that if you really want something, even if it takes a very long time, you can eventually make it happen.

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      One tip if you are visiting Angkor, especially if you are only going to be there for one day, go to the ticket office around 5pm, right before it closes, the night before the day you are going and buy your ticket.

      The ticket will get you into the temples for the rest of that day, so you can check out sunrise, there are a few good spots to watch it, and it is good for all day the next day, so you can get up early and get started without having to wait in line for a ticket in the morning.

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      Posted in Cambodia, travel | 7 Comments | Tagged angkor, angkor wat, Cambodia, history, siem reap, travel
    • tiger

      Posted at 7:14 am by jasminedesirees, on July 22, 2014

      I’ve put off writing this post for awhile, just because I’m still not really sure how I feel about it. One of the very popular things for tourists to do in Chiang Mai is visit the Tiger Kingdom, a place where you can see, take pictures of, and even interact with tigers.

      You can choose which group of tigers you’d like to see, they have baby ones, teenagers, and full grown adults, the price varies depending on which group you want to see.

      I’d had a few friends that did it, so I kind of new what to expect, and I already knew I didn’t want to interact with the big ones. Tigers are wild animals after all, and in order to have people in the cages with them, taking pictures and touching them, they drug them, to keep them sleepy and easy to handle. The whole idea of that just made me very sad.

      We opted to just see the baby ones, because they are too small to do any damage they aren’t drugged, and you get to go in and see them and play with them for about 15 minutes. It was a really neat experience, the babies are mostly running around playing with each other, and you try to get a picture if you can.

      I was sitting on the floor and one of them came and laid beside me, and he batted at my fingers and wrapped his paws around my leg. He chewed on me a little bit, but I like to think it was out of affection, and it didn’t hurt at all.

      After our time was up, we went and had a drink at the cafe on site, where you can watch people doing their interactions with the big tigers. The adult tigers were mostly just laying on the ground, or up on a pedestal sleeping, while groups of tourists laid on them, pretended to be biting them, or made growling faces beside them.

      It was kind of awful to watch, these big, powerful, beautiful animals spending hours out of the day drugged to sleep so that tourists could pay to lay on top of them.

      It seemed very disrespectful, and I remember thinking that if one of the tigers did wake up and bite someone, it would serve everybody right. Not that I wanted anybody to get hurt, but if you don’t want to get bit, maybe don’t lay on top of a sleeping tiger.

      So even though playing with the baby tigers was really neat, I still wouldn’t go back, and I kind of wish I hadn’t gone at all.
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      Posted in Thailand, travel | 2 Comments | Tagged chiang mai, Thailand, tiger, travel
    • koh samui

      Posted at 7:42 am by jasminedesirees, on July 21, 2014

      Not much to report from Koh Samui, we were staying on the East side of the island, on Chaweng beach, and we pretty much settled into our beach chairs and didn’t move for three days.

      Chaweng beach was so gorgeous, the ocean was crystal clear, and the beaches were white sand. We had amazing weather (it was so hot the polish was melting off my toenails) so we weren’t feeling very ambitious to do anything that didn’t involve the water.

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      We went stand up paddle boarding one day, which is one of my favourite things to do, they have hover crafts and jet skis that you can rent, and there is an inflatable obstacle course with trampolines, rock walls and sea-saws that is pretty fun whether you’re a kid or a grown up.

      Chaweng is the most popular beach on Koh Samui, so if you are coming here during the high season, December to February-ish, it would be pretty busy, and maybe somewhere you’d want to avoid. The whole island is beaches so you definitely have options, but because we were here in July, there were not many other people, and it was still really relaxing and peaceful.

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      There are lots of fun things to do on Koh Samui itself, there is some really great shopping and restaurants, they have an English language movie theater which we checked out on a rainy Sunday night. It was three dollars per ticket for us to go see a movie on opening weekend, I’ll probably never be able to go to a movie in America again, just on principle.

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      They also have tours to nearby islands, Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan, both of which are supposed to be totally gorgeous. We absolutely meant to go, I swear, but our beach chairs were just. so. comfy.

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      Koh Samui was probably the most expensive Thai island we visited but it was definitely one of my favorites. I’d visit again, anytime.

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      Posted in beach, Thailand, travel | 0 Comments | Tagged beach, island, koh samui, Thailand, travel
    • railay

      Posted at 7:16 am by jasminedesirees, on July 17, 2014

      We spent a few days in Krabi, near Ao Nang. It had a nice, long beach, lots of good restaurants, and shopping, and some fun bars, but unfortunately, it absolutely poured rain for most of the time we were there.

      We did get one nice day, and it completely made up for the others. We took a boat to Railay, about a 15 minute ride, and it was absolutely gorgeous there. The boats dropped us off on the west side of the island, but we were told to walk across the island to the other side, and then back across to a hidden beach on the southwest side, where there is a massive cave, and a lookout point.

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      muddy path to the lagoon

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      as close as I could get to the lagoon, you can just see the water mocking me for being a chicken

      It was not very hidden, as most of the people on the island find their way over the the cave beach eventually, but it’s definitely worth a visit. It isn’t huge though, so if you come on a day where it is really busy, come check it out, swim in the cave for awhile and then when you’re ready, go back to the main beach where you get dropped off, it is just as beautiful, and way less busy.

      The real story about our trip to Railay, is our struggle up to the viewpoint. I’d heard about it from a few people, and it’s mentioned in every description of Railay, so I figured it would be pretty easy to access, maybe up a set of stairs like the viewpoint in Phi Phi.

      It wasn’t.

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      the start of the climb up to the viewpoint

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      view from the top

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      The viewpoint is just off the path to the cave beach, and it is a really intense climb. It is very steep, up a jagged rock face, with just a few areas of plateau where you can rest. There is a rope running up to the very top, wrapped around various tree trunks, but it is the same rope all the way up, and if anyone else is climbing (and it’s about 20 minutes to the top) and grabs the rope, it throws you off balance.

      Ordinarily, it would be a bit treacherous, but likely doable for anybody in even semi-decent physical shape, but when we visited it had been raining for 4 days straight, so on top of being steep, it was also very slippery.

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      They actually rent mountain climbing equipment at little shops all over the island, which I obviously declined. Instead I wore flip flops and a backless Brandy Melville sundress, which was slightly annoying on the way up, but was actually a deathly nuisance on my way down, as it flared out whenever I moved so I couldn’t see where my feet were stepping.

      I ended up finishing the climb down in my underwear, with my dress tucked up into my bra. You’re welcome fellow climbers.

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      The view from the viewpoint alone is worth the climb, but there is also a lagoon in the mountain crater at the top, although it is another, more dangerous climb to get there, it’s supposed to be gorgeous.

      Unfortunately, the rain that had turned the viewpoint climb into a sloppy mess had turned the lagoon climb into a suicide mission. We passed group after group of people who had tried it, but ended up turning back.

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      Since I can never take anybody’s word for anything, we had to go too, and after slip sliding our way to the bottom of the first hill on hands and knees before we even reached the rocks to climb down, we realized that we weren’t going to make it.

      By the time we got to the bottom I was barefoot, and so muddy from head to toe that when we reached the cave beach, I just threw myself in, clothes and all. You can see my muddy little rat feet here, the rest of me was even worse.

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      Posted in beach, Thailand, travel | 6 Comments | Tagged beach, island, railay, Thailand, travel
    • koh lanta

      Posted at 3:36 am by jasminedesirees, on July 15, 2014

      The funny thing about Koh Lanta is that even though it was one of my favourite islands, it was so chill and relaxing that I took almost no photos the whole time we were there.

      It was super quiet, we maybe saw 10 other tourists the whole time were on the island, and our guest house was right on the ocean, so we had the whole place, and the pool to ourselves.

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      We rented a moped because tuk-tuks were 200TBH each way, and you could rent a moped for an entire day for that much. I was a bit nervous since they drive on the opposite side of the road than we do, and also drivers there tend to be a bit erratic, passing each other constantly, even when other drivers are coming, so there are quite a few near misses.

      On our first night, we set off on our moped, looking for a restaurant on the southwest side of the island where we planned to eat dinner. Over an hour of cruising later, we realized we had hit a dead end. It was starting to get dark outside, and we were clearly lost, so we turned around and headed back the way we came. When we finally found a map on the side of the road, we realized we’d taken a wrong turn, and had ended up on the complete opposite side of the island from the restaurant we were looking for.

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      Other than that little incident, it was pretty much smooth sailing. Quite a few of the restaurants on the island were closed because we were there during the low season, but the island was so gorgeous that we weren’t too upset.

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      We did visit the national park at the very southern tip of the island, which was crazy-gorgeous, with monkeys and monitor lizards running around everywhere, a lighthouse, and a nature hike that takes about two hours to complete.

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      One tip if you are going to visit Koh Lanta, we liked being there in the low season because it was cheaper, and it was nice to just relax after a few days of partying in Phi Phi, but the one downside was that some of the islands near Koh Lanta are designated as being part of the national marine park, and they aren’t open during the low season in order to give the reefs time to recuperate.

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      There are lots of diving, snorkeling and tour trips to the other islands advertised everywhere, but you can’t go during the low season, so keep that in mind when you’re planning your trip.

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      Posted in beach, Thailand, travel | 1 Comment | Tagged beach, koh lanta, monkeys, Thailand, travel
    • tips for traveling thailand

      Posted at 7:31 am by jasminedesirees, on July 14, 2014

      tips for traveling thailand

      There is tons of information about traveling in Thailand all over the internet, but here are just a few things that I learned along the way, that would have been really helpful to know beforehand.

      1. Bring Deep Woods mosquito repellent, with a high concentration of deet. We brought only one bottle for some reason, that was 100% feet, and it worked really well. I didn’t have a single mosquito bite for the first two weeks, but once it ran out, we had to buy stuff from here, and most of it is only 15% deet. Once we switched, I had 300% more mosquito bites. It is possible to find higher concentration, but it takes quite a bit of looking, and it’s more expensive.

      2. Change your money over to Baht. I read over and over again when we were getting ready to leave for Thailand that you don’t need to change your money and that American dollars are accepted everywhere there. That was not my experience at all, it was almost impossible to find anywhere that accepted American dollars, and if you were traveling to a remote part of Thailand, money exchanges are few and far between, so it’s best to change your money when you’re in Bangkok, or another larger city.

      3. Keep your ticket stubs. I saw this happen over and over and over again, to us, and to many other travelers. If you book something through a travel or tourist agency, or even your hotel, make sure you hold on to your ticket/receipt, even after you think you’ve turned it over to the right people.

      Often people will get picked up via mini-van, and transported to ferry/bus terminals to go to other parts of the country. The ticket has confirmation that you’ve paid for all legs of the journey, not just the mini-van, but often the mini-van driver will take your ticket when he picks you up, and then either lose it, or sometimes the drivers switch out mid-way through the trip, and he’ll take your ticket with him, and then you have no way to prove that you’ve already paid, even if you are traveling the whole way with the same travel company.

      Show the driver (or hostel, etc) your ticket, and then insist on holding on to it. I’ve met a lot of people who didn’t, and missed connections, spent hours fighting, or worst of all, had to re-pay.

      4. Bring all of your lotions from home. Lotions are readily available at every mini-mart on the street, but 98% of the ones sold there are whitening, to make/keep your skin whiter. You can usually find sunscreen that isn’t, but it’s definitely true for any face creams or lotions that you have. I ran out of moisturizer in our third week and ended up having a 20 minute Who’s-On-First type debacle with 3 different ladies at a store trying to figure out if one of their products was whitening or not.

      5. Beware of Sea Lice. This tip is going to be more relevant depending on what time of year you are visiting. We were there in June, during the peak time for sea lice, and it was a big problem for me. Sea lice are basically tiny jelly-fish larvae that float on the top of the water. I first encountered them as I was coming up from a dive in Phi Phi, everywhere my wet suit didn’t cover it felt like I was getting burned, it really hurt.

      I asked one of the guys on the dive boat, and he told me about sea lice. I did some more research when we got home that night, and sure enough, I woke up the next morning with a red itchy rash on my elbows, and down the fronts of my legs. Sea lice doesn’t affect everyone, many people can be in the water when they are present and not feel them, but some people are affected badly. I encountered them again in Krabi, only for a few minutes at the beach one day, and then again on our third day in Koh Samui, swimming in the same spot I’d been swimming at for the last three days.

      In Koh Samui they were so bad that I couldn’t stay in the water, but people all around me were swimming and having a blast, completely oblivious. I checked into it a bit, and you can buy repellent for them, I couldn’t find it in Thailand, so I’m not sure if it works for me, but if you are sensitive to sea lice, and will be there (or any other warm climate beach) during the summer months, it might be a good idea to order some and bring it with you, just in case.

      6. Bring anti-itch cream. See tip number one, and tip number five. Because I had a lot of mosquito bites, and also had a reaction from the sea lice, I was basically an itchy mess, and it was really hard to sleep some nights. Luckily I had packed a little first aid kit with basics, including Benadryl cream, and a Cortisone cream. It basically saved my life, I would highly recommend this.

      7. Pack light. Depending on the time of year you visit, it will be better or worse, but it is a tropical country, and generally, it is very hot here. Be sure to pack light, and bring light, airy fabrics. I didn’t bring that many clothes with me, but there are a couple of items I brought that I haven’t worn, (a few tshirts, a synthetic fabric sun dress, anything tight or constrictive) and it’s because it’s just too hot.

      Also, there are places that do your laundry for you on every corner, so don’t worry about running out of clothes. It usually cost us about 120B ($4) to get both mine and Derek’s clothes cleaned.

      Posted in Thailand, travel | 2 Comments | Tagged Thailand, tips, travel
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