Have always loved this poem. “So was I once myself a swinger of birches”.
Birches
Have always loved this poem. “So was I once myself a swinger of birches”.
Birches
One of my favourite things about Bali was how green everything was. I’ve never seen anything that green before.
We stopped in at the Tagal Lalang rice fields in central Bali one day, and they were absolutely breathtaking.
There are restaurants and shops all along the road to Tagal Lalang, and then all of a sudden there is a break, and it’s just sheer gorgeousness.
You pay a small fee, but you can climb down and wander around the rice fields for as long as you want.
Definitely stop in if you are anywhere close to the area, it’s so worth it.
This last weekend we took the first of many planned roadtrips to check out our new part of the world. We drove up to Page on Friday night, and spent the next two days creeping around and exploring.
It’s about a four hour drive, but I downloaded season one of the Serial podcast to listen to on the drive up, and the whole thing pretty much flew by.
We were up early on Saturday, and our first stop was the Lower Antelope Canyon. I have a charming (probably) tendency to see something, or read about something, and then want to go off and do it right away, without doing a ton of (or any) research, which is usually fine, but sometimes it means we end up stranded in the Sydney airport, or spending 3 days in Mataram for no reason.
In this case, it means we drove up to Page, and then I started reading about the Antelope Canyon, and how maybe if you are claustrophobic, you shouldn’t go in there. Errrrr. Also, it said the best time to go is March to October because that’s when the famous “light beams” are most prevalent.
I read from a bunch of places that Lower Antelope is better, and less crowded, and also read that Ken’s Tours was the best company to go with for Lower Antelope (you have to go with a guide), so that’s what we did.
The tour was $28/ person, and lasted about an hour and a half. It’s only about a half mile total, so not super strenuous, but definitely wear running shoes because the stairs to get down are kind of steep, and it’s a bit narrow in places.
It was seriously worth the drive and the price, it was so amazingly beautiful in there. I took about 1000 pictures, I couldn’t get enough of it. Our guide was really nice, and she showed us different places to take pictures right up against the rocks to get a certain image with names like “Rocky Mountain Sunset” and “Sand Wave”.
Also it turned out that the best time to visit Upper Antelope is in the summer, but the best time to visit Lower Antelope is actually in the winter, so we did get to see some light beams. I told you it usually works out fine.
If you are going to visit, make sure to check the weather forecast (I never do) but if it rains the canyons are closed because they fill up with water quickly and it can be very dangerous.
Also, bring a light jacket, because it gets chilly down there. By the end of the tour I couldn’t unclench my hands. And maybe don’t wear shorts. I will never learn, apparently.
At the end of the tour, you climb out of a little slot in the rock (watch your head) and when you turn around and look behind you, you almost can’t even tell there is anything there, it just looks like rocks and desert.
A few lovely things for today, when I’m feeling grateful for new adventures, and even more grateful for old friends.
While we were lounging around South Kuta, we stopped in at the Uluwatu Temple to watch the sunset.
It was gorgeous, the temple is right on a cliff overlooking the ocean, and there is a walkway stretching along the cliff in both directions.
There is also a ceremony that they have every night to bring offerings to the Hindu Gods, and we were able to see that as well.
Plus the ceremonial wraps that everyone has to wear to enter the temple are the most beautiful colour of purple, so that’s not nothing.
After our exertions on Mount Rinjani on Lombok, we took the ferry back over to Bali. It was about 4 hours, but there was lots of snacks, so it worked out. D had some family coming to visit, but we had a few days to kill, so we found an amazing surf house to stay at via AirBnB, and settled in for a few days in South Kuta.
Please note that there is a huge difference between South Kuta, and Kuta proper. I spent about an hour in Kuta, and that was enough for the rest of my life. It’s ridiculously busy and it’s Hard Rock Cafe’s and Starbucks as far as they eye can see.
South Kuta is a lot quieter, with some amazing beaches, and some of the best surfing spots in Indonesia, and some cute restaurants too. Our few days there were pretty much perfect. We would sleep in every day, have mango for breakfast, lay by the pool for awhile and then set out on our rented moped to explore the beaches.
We stopped in at so many different ones that I can’t remember all of the names, but my favourites were Uluwatu and Dreamland Beach (not to be confused with Dream Beach).
Uluwatu was amazing, we sat in a bar nestled into the rocks, and watched the surfers for hours. It’s weird how watching someone who is really good at something makes you feel like it’s easy and you are probably good at it too?
By the time we left there it was taking every ounce of my self restraint to not grab a surf board and paddle out, because I knew in the depths of my soul that I would be a world class surfer, if I could just get over my fear of sharks, and large waves, and learn to stand up on the board (I have actually been surfing lots of times, but these were BIG waves).
A few days after we were at Uluwatu, there was a killer whale out playing in the waves with the surfers, wish we had been there to see it, but also I probably would have had a heart attack from the stress.
Dreamland beach was gorgeous, it was a bit off the beaten path, down the kind of dirt road that can only lead to somewhere amazing, or certain death, but absolutely one or the other.
There is a big hotel there, it was still being worked on when we visited, but it has a huge infinity pool, and you can go hang out there for the day, it’s $10.00 to use the pool, but you get a voucher to spend it on food and drinks, so it’s not too bad.
On our way back one day we rode past a house that had a door that my dreams are made of. It was purple, and beautiful, and we will be together one day, I’m sure of it.
I’ve been waiting to post about this for awhile, to make sure that it was really something I could stick with, but it’s been almost 6 months, and I don’t have any plans to stop, so I guess it’s probably safe to share.
One of the changes I made while we were gone on our trip was that I became fully vegetarian, and completely stopped eating any meat or seafood (not that I ate a lot of seafood before).
I’ve always been super picky and weirded out by meat, and that always made me feel hypocritical. Like, if you can’t bear to think about what it is without feeling sick, should you really be eating it? So I think it was really kind of inevitable, and it was just the right time.
Most people when I tell them I stopped eating meat when we were in Indonesia say “Oh I can’t blame you, I wouldn’t eat meat over there either”, but it really wasn’t that I thought it was so much worse than meat we have over here.
I was almost completely vegetarian by then, but I would still eat chicken once in awhile, until one day when we were sitting in a small home kitchen for lunch. D ordered chicken fried noodles, and a little boy from the family that owned the restaurant ran out to the backyard to bring in one of the chickens so they could kill it and cook it for us.
And that really freaked me out, but not for the reasons that you might think. I just felt like if I was that uncomfortable eating a chicken that I knew was chicken, and knew exactly how it was going to be killed and cooked, right in front of me, then why would I be OK with eating meat that I don’t know where it came from, and I have no idea (actually I do kind of have an idea, and that’s even worse) how it’s treated and prepared?
When we were in Australia, I was listening to the radio on our road trip, and a local cattle farmer was being interviewed, and she said that people always came up to her and asked her how she could stand raising animals from babies, and then slaughtering them and eating them? Like how could she eat something if she knew it’s name?
And her point was, how can you eat something if you don’t know it’s name or where it came from? Which kind of hit home for me.
So I stopped eating meat, and I honestly really don’t miss it, and I feel great. I actually tried vegetarianism almost two years ago, but when I stopped eating meat I just started eating chips and junk food (because technically that’s vegetarian right?) and I felt awful all the time.
I decided it must be because I wasn’t eating meat, so I went back to it. This time, I’m actually eating vegetables (what a novel idea), and trying to eat as many different ones every day as I can.
A few months after I stopped eating meat completely, we were in the Philippines, diving off the island of Coron, sitting in the boat waiting for our divemaster, when a small canoe-type boat pulled up next to us.
It was a boat from Palawan, bringing live pigs over to sell in the marketplace. There were about 6 of them, enormous full grown pigs, tied to stakes, and tied to each other, and kept that way for the entire 8 hour boat ride. It was very hot that day, and they had no shade.
The worst part was the sound they were making. I’m not even sure if pigs are biologically equipped to scream, but that’s what it was. They were screaming. It was horrible, I was almost in tears, but I asked D to take a picture so I could share it.
I’ve done enough research to know that compared to treatment animals in some slaughterhouses in America, that probably wasn’t even that bad.
So that’s where I’m at right now. I’m having fun experimenting with different recipes and trying new foods, and I’m almost feeling up to the daunting task of trying to make my own veggie burgers, but not quite.
Last Sunday we took a much needed break from unpacking and trying to get our lives organized to actually go outside and enjoy life for a few hours.
We went over to check out the Superstition Mountains at Lost Dutchman State Park, about a 40 minute drive east of Phoenix.
We did the Treasure Loop Trail, about 2 miles in total, so not very ambitious, but there are a bunch of different trails, so we’re definitely going to go back and check out as many of the other ones as we can in the next few months.
Apparently come June Arizona turns into a terrifying hell-scape of venomous rattlesnakes and 120 F temperatures.
So not exactly peak hiking conditions, you might say.
A good reminder. Live every day as if it’s your last, because one of these days, it will be.